Title: How To Build A Linen Closet In A Hallway: DIY Storage
Introduction
Hallways are often the most underutilized square footage in a home. They serve as simple arteries connecting rooms, but with the right vision, they can become high-functioning storage hubs. I have seen countless clients struggle with overflowing bathroom vanities simply because they lack a dedicated spot for towels and sheets.
Building a linen closet in a hallway changes the way your home functions. It centralizes your storage, keeping clean linens accessible to all bedrooms and bathrooms rather than hiding them in damp zones. Whether you are retrofitting a niche or building a cabinet from scratch, this project adds tangible value to your property.
If you are looking for visual inspiration before you start cutting drywall, be sure to check out the Picture Gallery at the end of the blog post.
1. Planning Your Space and Layout
Before you swing a hammer, you must determine what kind of linen closet your hallway can support. In my design projects, I start by analyzing the traffic flow. A hallway needs a clear walking path of at least 36 inches to feel comfortable and meet most building codes.
If you have a wide hallway (48 inches or more), you can likely build a shallow closet against an existing wall without recessing it. If your hallway is standard width, you will need to open the wall and borrow space from an adjacent room or a dead void behind the drywall.
Designer’s Note: The Depth Rule
A functional linen closet does not need to be 24 inches deep like a wardrobe. In fact, deep linen closets are often messy because items get lost in the back. I prefer a depth of 15 to 18 inches. This allows you to stack towels and folded sheets without wasting space.
Location Checklist:
- Stud check: Use a stud finder to locate the framing members. Most hallway walls are non-load bearing, but you must verify this before cutting headers.
- Obstruction scan: Look for light switches, outlets, or return air vents that might need relocating.
- Door clearance: Ensure that adding a closet door won’t collide with bedroom or bathroom doors when they swing open.
2. Framing and Structural modifications
This phase separates a simple furniture project from a true built-in renovation. If you are recessing the closet, you are essentially framing a new door opening. This requires cutting out the drywall and removing the existing studs in that specific section.
You will need to construct a header to support the wall above the new opening. Even in non-load-bearing walls, a header keeps the framing rigid and prevents the drywall from cracking later. Use 2×4 lumber for standard walls.
Common Mistakes + Fixes
Mistake: Forgetting to account for the door jamb width.
Fix: Your “rough opening” (the framed hole) should generally be 2 inches wider and 2 inches taller than the actual door size you plan to buy. If you buy a 24-inch door, frame the opening to 26 inches.
Step-by-Step Framing:
- Cut the drywall: Mark your opening and cut the drywall back to the center of the nearest studs outside your zone. This makes patching easier later.
- Install the plates: Screw a sole plate (floor) and top plate (ceiling) into the existing framing structure.
- Add King and Jack studs: The King stud goes from floor to ceiling; the Jack stud sits inside it and supports the header.
- Insert the header: Place your header on top of the Jack studs and secure it.
3. Drywall, Electrical, and Prep
Once the skeleton is built, you need to close it up. If you borrowed space from an adjacent room, you will need to drywall the back of the closet so it looks finished. Do not leave exposed insulation inside a linen closet; the fibers will settle on your clean sheets.
This is also the moment to address lighting. A dark linen closet is frustrating to use. I always recommend hardwired lighting if possible, preferably a recessed LED gimbal light or a door-activated switch.
If hardwiring isn’t in the budget, plan for battery-operated motion sensor lights. They have improved significantly in recent years and offer a warm color temperature (3000K) that mimics natural light.
The “Smooth Wall” Standard
When taping and mudding the interior, do not skimp just because it is a closet. Shadows from overhead lights will highlight ridges in the drywall mud.
- Apply three thin coats of compound rather than one thick coat.
- Sand between coats with fine-grit sandpaper.
- Prime the fresh drywall before painting to ensure the finish coat bonds properly.
4. Designing the Shelving System
The interior layout is where an interior designer earns their keep. The standard “four shelves evenly spaced” approach is inefficient. You need specific zones for specific items.
I recommend using adjustable shelving tracks. This gives you the flexibility to change heights as your needs change—for instance, if you switch from bulky comforters to thin quilts. However, if you want a high-end custom look, fixed wood cleats with trimmed shelves are superior.
Ideal Vertical Spacing Guidelines:
- Floor to First Shelf (18–24 inches): Leave this large gap for heavy items like laundry hampers or a vacuum cleaner.
- Towel Shelves (10–12 inches): This height prevents towel stacks from toppling over.
- Sheet Shelves (10 inches): Sheets fold flatter than towels and don’t need much height.
- Bulk Item Shelf (12–14 inches): Reserve a taller shelf for toilet paper bulk packs or paper towels.
- Top Shelf (12+ inches): Keep this for seasonal items like guest pillows or winter duvets.
Material Choice:
Use 3/4-inch plywood with an iron-on edge banding for a professional finish. Avoid particle board if you live in a humid climate, as it can swell over time. For a true designer touch, add a 1×2 inch wood trim piece to the front of every plywood shelf to make them look substantial and chunky.
5. Selecting Doors and Trim
The door you choose defines the style of the hallway. To make the closet look like it has always been there, match the style of your existing interior doors (e.g., 2-panel shaker, 6-panel traditional).
Door Types for Hallways:
- Standard Swing: Best for easy access, but requires swing clearance.
- Bi-fold: Excellent for narrow hallways as they only protrude half the distance of a swing door.
- Double French Doors: If the closet is wider than 30 inches, two narrow doors look elegant and reduce swing radius.
Trim Installation:
Casing the door is the final construction step. Install the head casing (top piece) first, then fit the side legs. If your floors are uneven—and they usually are—measure both sides independently.
What I’d Do in a Real Project:
I almost always paint the closet door the same color as the trim (semi-gloss white) rather than the wall color. This frames the storage as an architectural feature. However, if the hallway is tiny and feels claustrophobic, painting the door the same color as the walls (in a satin finish) will make the closet disappear visually.
Final Checklist
Before you load up your new shelves, run through this final quality control list. These are the small details that prevent maintenance issues down the road.
Construction & Safety:
- Verify all shelving brackets are screwed into studs or heavy-duty toggle anchors.
- Check that the door latches smoothly without rubbing the frame.
- Caulk all seams between the trim and the wall for a seamless look.
Aesthetics & Function:
- Paint the interior walls a shade lighter than the hallway, or bright white, to reflect light.
- Install shelf liners on wood shelves to prevent snagging delicate fabrics.
- Let the paint cure for at least 3 days before placing heavy items on shelves to prevent sticking.
FAQs
How much does it cost to build a DIY linen closet?
For a basic retrofit using existing walls, materials (lumber, drywall, door, shelving) usually cost between $400 and $800. If you are buying a pre-made cabinet unit to install, prices range from $600 to $1,500 depending on the finish quality.
What is the minimum depth for a linen closet?
You can get away with as little as 12 inches of depth. A standard bath towel folded in thirds is roughly 10-11 inches deep. If you go shallower than 12 inches, you will have to roll your towels, which is a valid stylistic choice but requires more maintenance.
Can I build a linen closet without framing walls?
Yes. You can purchase a tall pantry cabinet or wardrobe unit and anchor it to the wall. To make it look “built-in,” install baseboard molding around the bottom and crown molding at the top to bridge the gap to the ceiling.
How do I prevent my linens from smelling musty?
Use wire shelving or slatted wood shelves to promote airflow. If you have solid shelves, ensure you don’t overpack them. I also suggest keeping a small open container of baking soda or a cedar block on the bottom shelf to absorb moisture and odors.
Conclusion
Building a linen closet in a hallway is an intermediate DIY project that pays off immediately in daily convenience. It frees up your bathroom for daily essentials and declutters bedroom closets. By paying attention to the spacing of your shelves and the quality of your trim work, you can create a feature that adds both function and resale value to your home.
Remember that the goal is not just storage, but accessible storage. Take the time to plan your layout based on what you actually own, not just standard measurements. With the right materials and a weekend of work, your hallway can transform from a simple passageway into the hardest working area of your home.
Picture Gallery
