How To Grow A Peace Lily In Water: Hydroponic Beauty
Growing a Peace Lily in water is one of my favorite styling secrets for adding greenery to a space without the visual heaviness of a ceramic pot. It creates a sleek, architectural look that fits perfectly in modern, minimalist, or transitional interiors. If you are looking for visual inspiration regarding vessel shapes and root styling, check out the curated Picture Gallery located at the end of this blog post.
For many of my clients, the hesitation with indoor plants comes down to the mess of soil and the fear of overwatering. Hydroponic styling eliminates the guesswork of watering schedules and removes the risk of soil-borne pests like fungus gnats. It transforms the plant’s root system into a visible design element, adding texture and organic complexity behind clear glass.
However, transitioning a soil-based plant to water is not as simple as plucking it from the dirt and dropping it in a vase. It requires a specific process to ensure the plant thrives rather than rots. In this guide, I will walk you through the exact method I use for client installations, covering everything from root preparation to selecting the perfect vessel for your decor.
Why Choose Hydroponics for Interior Styling?
From a design perspective, water culture changes the visual weight of the plant. A standard Peace Lily in a heavy earthenware pot commands a lot of floor or table space and can feel dense.
When you strip away the soil and place the plant in a clear glass cylinder, it becomes airy and light. This is particularly useful in small apartments or darker corners where you want to add life without blocking sightlines. The water captures and refracts light, adding a subtle sparkle that static soil cannot achieve.
This method also allows us to play with the verticality of the space. Because you do not need a drainage saucer, you can place these vessels on delicate surfaces like untreated wood consoles or stacked books without fear of water damage.
The Practical Benefits
Selecting the Right Plant and Vessel
Success starts with choosing the right specimen. When I am sourcing plants for a water installation, I look for Peace Lilies (Spathiphyllum) that are relatively young. Younger plants adapt to the shock of water transition much faster than mature, root-bound ones.
Look for a plant with vibrant green leaves and no brown tips. If the plant is already blooming, cut the flower off before transitioning. You want the plant to focus its energy on root development, not sustaining a bloom.
Choosing the Vessel: A Designer’s Perspective
The vessel is just as important as the plant. In interior design, we talk about scale and proportion constantly. A common mistake is choosing a vase that is too narrow at the opening.
The Peace Lily needs airflow around the base of its stems. If the neck of the vase chokes the stems, they will rot.
Recommended Vessel Shapes:
Designer’s Note:
When selecting glass, consider the “finish” of the water. Clear glass is classic, but it shows algae growth quickly. For clients who are busy, I often specify smoked glass or amber glass. It hides sediment and slight cloudiness between cleanings while still looking chic.
Step-by-Step Transition: Soil to Water
This is the most critical phase. You cannot rush this process. If you leave soil on the roots, the water will become a bacterial soup, and the plant will die.
Step 1: Unpot and Loosen
Remove the Peace Lily from its nursery pot. Gently massage the root ball to loosen the soil. Do not pull hard; you want to preserve as many fine feeder roots as possible.
Step 2: The Tepib Water Bath
Fill a bucket with tepid water. Submerge the roots and swish them around gently. Let the plant sit for 15 to 20 minutes to soften the stubborn earth clinging to the center of the root ball.
Step 3: The Deep Clean
Take the plant to the sink. Using a gentle stream of lukewarm water, rinse the roots thoroughly. I use a soft-bristled toothbrush (dedicated to plants) to gently comb through the roots.
You must remove 100% of the soil. It should look like bare, white or tan spaghetti. If you see dark, mushy roots, snip them off with sterilized scissors.
Step 4: The Initial Soak
Place the clean plant in your vessel and fill it with distilled or filtered water. Do not use tap water immediately if you have hard water, as the chlorine and fluoride can burn the sensitive tissue during this stress period.
Ensure only the roots are submerged. The base of the stems (the crown) must remain above the water line. This is non-negotiable. If the crown is underwater, the stems will turn to mush.
Styling and Placement in the Home
Peace Lilies are famous for being low-light tolerant, but “tolerant” does not mean they thrive in the dark. In water culture, they need slightly more light to sustain the energy required for water roots.
Lighting Requirements
Place your vessel in bright, indirect light. A spot 3 to 5 feet away from a north or east-facing window is ideal.
Avoid direct southern sun. The glass vessel can act as a lens, heating the water and cooking the roots. If you have a sunny room, place the plant behind a sheer curtain or deeper into the room on a dining table or sideboard.
Styling “The Rule of Three”
In design, we often group objects in odd numbers. A hydroponic Peace Lily looks stunning when paired with two other objects of varying heights.
For example, on a living room console:
1. The Peace Lily in a tall glass cylinder (Height).
2. A stack of two coffee table books (Horizontal visual weight).
3. A sculptural ceramic bowl or candle (Texture).
This triad creates a balanced vignette. Because the vase is clear, it acts as “negative space,” keeping the arrangement from feeling cluttered.
Common Mistakes + Fixes
Even with the best intentions, things can go wrong. Here are the issues I see most often in client homes and how to fix them.
The Algae Problem
The Mistake: Placing clear glass in too much light, leading to green slime on the roots and glass.
The Fix: Move the plant out of direct sun. Change the water weekly. You can also add a few drops of hydrogen peroxide to the water to oxygenate it and kill algae spores without hurting the plant.
The Drooping Plant
The Mistake: The water level is too low, or the shock of transition is too high.
The Fix: Ensure roots are submerged. If the plant looks sad immediately after transition, place a clear plastic bag over the leaves for a few days to create a humidity dome. This reduces water loss while roots recover.
Cloudy, Smelly Water
The Mistake: Root rot caused by remaining soil or submerged stems.
The Fix: Remove the plant immediately. Snip off any brown, slimy roots. Wash the vessel with soap and hot water. Refill with fresh water and keep the water level lower this time.
Long-Term Maintenance Checklist
Hydroponic plants require different nutrition than soil plants. Soil contains minerals; tap water usually does not contain the right ones.
Fertilizing:
Do not fertilize for the first six weeks after transitioning. The plant is in shock. After that, use a high-quality liquid fertilizer designed for hydroponics.
Dilute it to 1/4 the recommended strength. I add this weak nutrient solution once a month during spring and summer. Never fertilize in winter.
Water Changes:
Top off the water as it evaporates.
Perform a full water change every 2 to 3 weeks. This replenishes oxygen. Stagnant water lacks oxygen, which roots need to breathe.
Cleaning the Leaves:
Because these plants are often used as focal points, dust is very visible. Wipe leaves down with a damp microfiber cloth bi-weekly. This also helps the plant photosynthesize efficiently.
What I’d Do in a Real Project: The Setup
If I were installing this in a client’s living room tomorrow, here is exactly how I would execute it to ensure it looks expensive and lasts.
Final Checklist
Before you start, ensure you have ticked all these boxes:
FAQs
Is a Peace Lily safe for cats and dogs?
No. Peace Lilies contain calcium oxalate crystals. If chewed or swallowed, they cause significant irritation to the mouth, tongue, and throat. In a design layout, I always place these high up on mantels or shelving units if a client has pets.
Why are my leaves turning yellow in water?
Yellow leaves usually indicate two things in water culture: either too much direct sunlight (sunburn) or a nutrient deficiency. If the lighting is correct, try adding a tiny drop of liquid fertilizer. If the roots look brown and mushy, it is root rot.
Can I use tap water?
Yes, but let it sit out in an open container for 24 hours before using it. This allows chlorine to evaporate. If you have a water softener, do not use that water, as the salt content will kill the plant.
How long can a Peace Lily live in water?
Indefinitely, provided you maintain the water and add nutrients. I have seen water-grown Peace Lilies thrive for years. They may grow slower than their soil counterparts, but they will remain healthy and beautiful.
Conclusion
Growing a Peace Lily in water is the perfect intersection of horticulture and interior design. It strips the plant down to its most essential, sculptural forms—leaf, stem, and root—creating a living piece of art that feels modern and clean.
While the transition process requires patience and a gentle hand, the result is a low-maintenance, high-impact styling element that elevates any room. By following the rules of scale, lighting, and hygiene outlined above, you can enjoy this hydroponic beauty for years to come.
Picture Gallery
